Finished dress taking form
This was my final sleeve pattern. The curve on the top of the sleeve is so that you won't have that much loose fabric under the arm and at the same time get more ease at the shoulder. It also causes the seam of the sleeve to be in the back, in my case about 8 cm from the shoulder seam. Of course, there's a strip of linen on the opposite side of the buttons on the sleeves as well, I just hadn't attached those yet when I took the second photo.
Now you can see the finished dress taking form. It turned out as I imagined, however, I have a few doubts: the upper part of the sleeves are very loose. I don't know if I'm going to keep them that way since it's going to be an overdress anyway, or take them in. I am also thinking about taking it in just a bit in the back, I'm not used to wearing non-tight dresses and I like the comfy and steady feeling of a tight bodice. I don't know yet whether I will do this or not. Hmm!
After all, it's an overdress so I didn't want it to be super-tight anyway.
I'm also a bit worried that the neckline in the back is too low and that it might cause the sleeves to slide down, but I didn't experience that while trying the dress on even with another beneath. So I think it will be fine.
I have some things left to do, I have a few seams left to flat-fell and also hem the dress in the bottom. But that's quite boring so I think I'm gonna take a small pause, hehe, since I'm going to my mum's house over midsummer anyway. There I'm thinking about making wool mittens! :D Won't be so difficult or take that long, I think :)
Bye for now!
Buttons on! With guide.
Squeee! Now all the buttons and holes are in the front opening! Attaching all the buttons took probably two hours or so, and I did it in front of the second season of "Parks and recreation" ;P
I learned how to make the buttons from a very nice and helpful girl in my local SCA group, which I'm happy about!
Making all the holes took about 3 hours and I did that watching a movie. I was really nervous because once you cut the slize through all the three layers of fabric there is no turning back - and very little chance to cover up a mistake. However, everything went just fine! I secured the edges of the holes with tiny tiny "blanket stitches". I deliberately made the holes a bit too narrow to prevent the buttons from jumping out.
The outside (it looks messier on this over-exposed photo than in real life) and the not very pretty inside.
The holes are quite stiff and feel really safe, although I admit it doesn't look that way :)
Trying the dress on, I'm over all pleased. It is not milimeter perfection we're talking about but it looks pretty, genuine and nice just like hand sewn things should look :)
I drew a little guide for making wool buttons, I hope it makes sense... I never thought any of the guides and tutorials made ANY sense at all before I learned how to make them myself. It sounds and looks harder than it is, but it's actually really easy once you've mastered (well...) the technique!
Showing it off a bit
As you can see everything is done except for sleeves, buttons & holes and a few more things.
Now I will be making buttons, buttons and more buttons!
Front opening and flattened seams
Haven't made huge much progress since the last post, but I have some more photos now.
This is the front opening (without buttons of course), which is finished. It is hemmed with a tiny stab stitch. I haven't used this technique before and I'm happy with the outcome - it looks flatter and more clean than had I just hemstitched a folded edge like I use to do. I'm a bit worried that the fabric and lining together will be too soft for the buttons and buttonholes and that the stress will cause it to stretch. Therefore I will probably add a strip of linen on each side soon.
The seams are all sewn down for a cleaner less bulky look on the outside. The pic in the middle is the inside of the front gore. It sure took some time... And on the right is the gore from the outside.
Don't pay attention to all the cat hair :D
At the moment I'm waiting for cash so that I can buy more thread and finish sewing on the last gore. Then we'll see!
Huge blue dress progress
Damn, I'm fast! In two days I have already cut all the pieces and I'm almost finished sewing them all together by hand, using tiny backstitches as always. The wool I'm using is very light weight so I thought I might as well treat the wool and the lining as one, and stitching through four layers was no problem.
Click on the thumbnails to enlarge!
The front and back panels. As always made by inspiration from instructions in "The medeival tailor's assistant".
Main fabric and lining stitched together (the seams will be flat, hiding the fraying lining when finished).
Cutting the gores.
An almost perfect row of backstitches.
I'm only lining the upper part of the dress and the sleeves. When everything's sewn together I will start making the buttons and also move onto the sleeves (I'm saving them for last).
The dress parts:
Bye for now!
Toile for grey/blue cotehardie
Just finished making a toile in some green linen I had left. I fitted it on top of my red wool dress since I want the new dress to be a lined (warm) overdress to wear on top of others.
(By the way, I'm still really astonished of the red dress... how on earth did I get it so perfect and snug? I REALLY need to make a new toile in wool- since linen and wool behave differently when stretched - and actually keep it this time, just as perfect, so I can use it to make new dresses like the red one :) But that's a question for later.)
Snug cotehardies with buttons on the front and sleeves are commonly seen during the latter half of the 14th century (and probably early 15th too). Often worn with yet another dress above with sleeves that hang to the floor and open at the elbow to show off the buttoned sleeves beneath. However, mine will be the over-overdress :) And probably occasionally worn with just a tunic beneath, if it doesn't turn out like a huge tent. (It won't.)
Now I have cut the toile apart along the seamlines and when I get myself some new pattern paper I will trace it onto that. And also, buy the lining fabric.