Skirt pt 2
I have now sewn half of the 14,2 meters of seams...
The not as neat inside.
(One backstitch is about 5 mm wide, so there are 200 stitches per meter. That means I will be sewing ~ 3000 stitches, well, probably more. :D)
Cutting aaall the skirt pieces
On to the skirt! I have two pairs of each of these pieces. All in all it's 3 meters of skirt. On my first dress, I had about 2,5 m. I was hoping to get more skirt this time, that's why I ordered an extra meter of the red fabric - also to avoid having to put too wide green panels in. The thinner the panels the prettier in my opinion :)
I have now attached the upper arms and put in the hooks and eyes, on bits of stiff linen that I put close to the front opening on both sides. Otherwise the soft wool underneath would stretch and it would all look awful. I seemed to have done something wrong though because the area around the the boobs was a bit too big when I tried it on. Oh well, nothing I can do about that now and it looks good anyway.
Nothing moreto say, really, so here's a picture of the progress, you can see a bit of the sleeve as well. (And some unwanted wrinkles that needs to be taken care of.)
Had to try it with the chemise and arms too, looks just the way I wanted it! Yay! The threads are photoshoped obviously ;)
That's all for now!
Sleeve update :)
I panicked a bit over the sleeves, because I didn't decide until yesterday how they were going to look and I wanted to go on with the project, compulsively over-enthusiastic in the aspie way as I am ;) But then I decided on this look:
I made the patterns (turns out it much easier without the mean elbow thing!) and cut the pieces:
The flat seams (ah, what a beautiful sight!):
My cat wants to help sewing as well, biting the scissor and sleeping on the fabric which makes all the wool full of cat hair, not very easy to get rid of :P
The front quickly sewn together, had to check... (Looking awesome!) The colours to the left are the accurate colours.
Picture of the lining
Sweet! My fully lined kampfrau bodice (the colours are a bit different in real life, haven't fully figured out my new camera yet) :D
Now to the sleeves, and not looking forward to it. The sleeve-making is the most boring part. :P
Lining practically finished
I have now finished the interlining (or really, lining, because there will only be one layer of lining) of the bodice! I was a bit worried at first because I have failed with lining garments before, making the pieces too small or too big or not saving the pattern pieces to use at all. But this time I'm pleased with the result. There were also some hesitation about which type of stitch to use, and determining which one that looked the best. I ended up using a catch stitch (as you hopefully know I'm hand sewing!), folding the seam allowances down and attaching them to the linen fabric. Looks good and decorative too. :)
The "main" seams on the bodice is now done and I have cut and sewn the green contrasting pieces onto it. :)
In the beginning I wanted to make the green pieces separate but then I decided that it would be worth the headache to instead sew them ONTO the red, because it looks better. (Ehh... hope you understood that, it's hard to explain.)
My flatiron was broke so I had to pin everything down. It took about six-seven hours or so to finish the three pieces (the back included). Thank god for TV.
Anyway, I'm not gonna do anything else until I've figured out the best looking way to line the bodice (with some cheap dark blue linen I bought yesterday) because I want it to look good inside as well. :P We'll see!
Starting on the bodice
This is what I have been doing:
- Cut the mock-up apart along the seam lines, then drew with a pen around the edges on the pattern paper. Then I added the seam-allowance, and at least two centimetres of it, since I'm always bad at adding seam-allowances. (I promise, there's a system in the chaos :P)
- Cut the main fabric, and the real fabric this time! Both a terrifying horror and a nice moment at the same time - there's no turning back now. :P Thankfully nothing went wrong.
- Loosely stitched the parts together just to check and voilá! Fits better than I had expected, obviously there's a few wrinkles here and there that needs to be sorted out and there's lots of extra fabric around the armpits.
The front is sewn together during the process but in the end there will be hooks and eyes. Also I haven't added the lining nor the green contrast pieces in the front and back yet either.
The neckline will be lower, since about 1-2 cm will be folded in.
This arrived in the mail today...
With a new camera as well, yay! It was a good day.
Very pretty bodice mock-up, ahem.
First I seriously need to apologize for the sucky webcam quality, but my digital camera decided to give up commit suicide last week. Hope to get a new one, could be helpful in documenting purposes :P
I decided to make a mock-up in spare wool, since linen and wool doesn't behave the same way and I want to make sure I know what I do before cutting in the real fabric. I did the same thing with the other dress and it's a good way :)
I was lazy and used an old sleeve pattern I made for a red 15th century dress last year, and thankfully it fitted when I pinned it on. Fitting sleeves must be the most boring thing ever. :( On my first bodice mock-up the shoulder straps were angled strangely outwards so that the sleeve dragged the strap down on my arm which is something I get quite a lot. But now the straps stay on the shoulders as they should. I will angle them slightly more to my neck when drafting the final pattern, though.
There's a few changes that has to be made obviously but all in all I'm pleased :D
My pattern pieces
And then there's of course the lining, I won't line the skirt but the bodice, to prevent from stretching and make it more stable. Several layers of linen will be sewn into the front and back contrasting pieces.
I thought this could be helpful for beginners who google their way in here. :D
Yesterday I ordered fabric! Wool in the shades of Forest green and Wine-red-purple from the great Medeltidsmode. I feel motivated to begin as soon as it arrives in the mail.
My biggest concern now is the skirt, the shape and the gathering of it. I don't think that the wool I ordered is particularly heavy weight at all, but one of my problems with the last kampfrau was that the skirt, even though being only 2,5 m wide and pleated with narrow box pleats, was too full around the waist. I'm beginning to think that either 2,5 m is drastically too wide/drastically too little; the wool I used was too heavy weight; or that wider pleats or is the way to go. Trapezoid panels would only cause even more heaviness.
Maybe I will go with a full circle shape.
So yeah, that's what I keep worrying about now... but I think I will just finish the bodice and then start asking around for skirt ideads. It will still be several weeks/maybe a month until I get that far.
My problem has always been that I'm too afraid of being turned down or get bad reactions from interacting with people, so I simply don't take the risk even though I know for sure that I would only gain from it. 'Course I know that. :) But with the knecht fashion my concern is built on the fact that I've got the impression before that people sometimes don't like to share their tricks which makes the whole thing even more angst-ridden than it normally would be, hehe, and that's why I don't like asking people how they did. If someone do feel like sharing, though, feel free to comment ;)